Count the number of stitches on your needles. Divide that number in half. (I have 44 stitches on my needles; 11 stitches on each needle).
1. Your live yarn is at the end of needle 4.
2. Transfer the stitches from needle 2 to needle 1 (I now have 22 stitches on needle 1)
3. Just leave needle 3 and needle 4 alone at this point (don't worry about them for now)
4. You now will be working on the stitches on needle 1 (needle 2 is no more for now....)
The first rows of the heel flap will be worked as follows:
1. K1, *K1, S1*, repeat between * * to end of row, turn
2. S1, P to end, turn
3. S1, *K1, S1*, repeat between * * to end of row, turn
Repeat rows 2 & 3 until heel flap is approximately 2" to 2 1/4" long. (I had 11 repeats of rows 2 & 3). At this point, end with a completed row 2 (purl row). Then do 1 row of straight knit stitch across needle 1.
You should have ended up with your work now on the wrong side (purl side). We are going to "turn the heel". Basically, you are going to work a set number of stitches in the middle. One of these stitches will be combined with a stitch on the side by either K2tog or P2tog, until all stitches are used up on the needle.
Row 1. S1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn (this is based on 22 stitches on needle)*See Notes below
Row 2. S1, k5, k2tog, k1, turn (6 stitches at end of needle before turning)
Row 3. S1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn (4 stitches at end of needle before turning)
Row 4. S1, k7, k2tog, k1, turn (4 stitches at end of needle before turning)
Row 5. S1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn (2 stitches at end of needle before turning)
Row 6. S1, k9, k2tog, k1, turn (2 stitches at end of needle before turning)
Row 7. S1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn (0 stitches at end of needle before turning)
Row 8. S1, k11, k2tog, k1, turn (0 stitches at end of needle before turning)
Notes: When you are slipping stitches, be sure to keep the tension tight on the slipped stitch. You don't want "gaps" in the heel. Also, these numbers listed above were using 6 ply yarn or worsted weight yarn. You may have more stitches. If so, your "middle group" of heel stitches may be increased one or more stitches. Just be sure your stitches are evenly grouped so that your heel will be even and not lopsided.
This is a fun part of the sock to compete. Don't be worried....we are going to be working with stitches placed over 3 needles....but we will adjust the stitches to the appropriate needle. But, first we have to pick up some stitches.
Here's what you are going do:
1. With a new needle, pick up 13 stitches (or how many you need) from the heel flap.
2. With a new needle knit across the 22 stitches from the instep of the foot.
3. With a new needle, pick up 13 stitches (or how many you need from the heel flap, and knit 7 stitches from the heel. Place a marker at this point since this will now be the ending of each row.
4. You are now going to do 1 row of knit all the way around but there is one more needle to adjust the stiches on....
5. You are now going to begin a new row (count this row as Row 1 - see below), knitting all the way around. With a needle, knit the 7 stitches from the heel and with the same needle, knit the 13 pick up stitches from the instep. This now completes stitches for needle 1. With needle 2, knit the stitches across the instep of the foot. With needle 3, knit the pick up stitches from the instep and the 7 stitches from the heel.
I now have the following stitches on my needles:
Needle 1 = 20
Needle 2 = 22
Needle 3 = 20
That a total of 62 stitches and I need to decrease down to 44 stitches. Again, you will be knitting in the round and doing the decreases at the end of needle 1 and beginning of needle 3. Below is the pattern for the gusset decrease rounds. You will now do Row 2 (aka decrease row) shown below.
Row 1. Knit all stitches
Row 2. Needle 1: Knit to the last three stitches, k2 tog, k1
Needle 2: Knit all stitches on Needle 2
Needle 3: Knit 1 stitch, SSK, knit to the end
Repeat these two rows until there are 11 stitches* on both Needle 1 and Needle 3, for a total count of 44 stitches*.
*Note* I started with a total of 44 stitches. I have 22 stitches on the instep (Needle 2). So I am going to work these decreases until I have 11 stitches on Needle 1 and 11 stitches on Needle 3 for a total of 44 stitches = the same amount of stitches I originally started with. Your pattern may have 48 stitches, or 40 stitches, so adjust accordingly.
If you don't want to wait until next week's post, you can go ahead and start the instep and knit every row until the length is approximately 2" less than what you need.....
Next week I will post the info for Instep, Toe Decrease and Kitchener Stitch. Please don't be shy - feel free to comment. I love to hear from you.
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and today you can find me at Yarn Along